Part 5/Textiles/Research

MY RESEARCH ON SUSTAINABILITY

Beckham, Victoria – Online store

Victoria Beckham’s Online shopping store – all her latest designs that sell in UK and overseas.  Only a brief description of the history of Victoria Beckham designs can be found here.

https://www.victoriabeckham.com/pages/about

Beckham, Victoria – Sustainability

Article in the WWD online Fashion magazine, spokesperson for Victoria Beckham brand confirmed that they have always not used fur however they have now also banned the use of exotic animal skins of any kind in their quest to be sustainable in the fashion industry and use ethically sources products

“As a business, we have been looking to action the use of more ethically sourced products that have less environmental impact for some time. We are happy to confirm that we will cease using exotic skins in all future collections as of our main autumn/winter 19 ready-to-wear presentation. This decision reflects the wishes of not only the brand, but also that of our customers.”

Victoria Beckham Ditches Exotic Skins, Reconfirms No-Fur Stance

Foreign & Commonwealth Office (FCO) (accessed April 4, 2019)

2017-2018 Report on Sustainability by the FCO.  Interesting articles about how the Government is progressing with it’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDG).  Besides what they are aiming to achieve throughout the country and influencing the rest of the world.  There are charts of how well they are reaching their goals (or not) and how they can make a difference to our country and the planet itself by addressing issues such as endangered species, paper and water wastage, plastic recycling, reducing climate change and carbon footprints.  An interesting read as there is still so much more that needs to be done but at least they are taking it seriously now especially about wastage and the damage to our planet.

“The FCO has always worked hard to reduce the amount of waste it disposes, particular when costs continue to rise. Since 2011, the FCO has spent over £1m on waste disposal costs and to deliver better value to the taxpayer we continue to look for innovative ways to drive performance improvements”. Damien Currie, Head, UK Facilities Management

Raeburn, Christopher – RAEBURN Designer of Sustainable  fashion items

“I think as a designer you have an obligation to consider what you are doing and why; ultimately, we want to make strong, sustainable choices that provide our customers with a completely unique and desirable product” (Raeburn 2019).

Cutting edge fashion company selling a range of items, from Men and Womens wear, bags and accessories made from reworking surplus materials and products into new items, use local employment and local manufacturing and have a 4 R Sustainable Ethos – Remade, Reduced, recycled and Reburn.  (Recycling parachutes, mesh and parkas).

McGuirk, Justin – The Art of Craft: the rise of the designer-maker

Article written by McGuirk in The Guardian August 1, 2011

Raeburn, Christopher – Online website can be found at https://www.raeburndesign.co.uk/shop.html

MY RESEARCH ON SLOW DESIGN

Robins, Kendall – Could Design Save the World – British Council

Kendall writes about sustainability in fashion and how we could all make a difference through design.

Kendall, R – Could Design Save the World British Council, can be found at https://www.britishcouncil.org/voices-magazine/could-design-save-world-sustainable-design-london-fashion-week  (accessed May 7, 2019)

Textiles Environment Design (TED)TED’S TEN (accessed May 1, 2019)

TED has formalized a list of criteria for Designers and Makers to follow when making their garments addressing environmental considerations and sustainability issues at the beginning of their process.

MY RESEARCH ON CLOUDS AND PILLARS

Discover Mongolia Travel – Ger Description

A Ger is a traditional Mongolian home, commonly known as a yurt.  In brief it is a round tent that is covered in a hard wearing, waterproof canvas, normally white in colour.  The structure of the Ger is typically made up of “eighty-eight separate wooden poles each measuring around 1.5 metres are used for the Ger frame” according to DMT (Discover Mongolia Travel).  This frame is known as the “khana”, with the central support columns being the “uni” and the smoke hole is “toono”.  According to DMT “the door is always on the southern side facing the sun”.

Bedouin Tent ‘The Black Tent” by Aramco World

Traditionally a Bedouin tent was made from a heavy cloth woven from black or brown goat or sheep’s wool.  The cloth would be about 25 foot long and four pieces were needed to form a rectangle shape, to create the roof of the tent followed by another long strip to form the sides of the tent “the ruaq”, six wooden pins were used to pin them to the roof and this was then draped to the surface of the ground according to an article in Aramco World (1966).  Furthermore, the inside of the tent was divided into sections by vertical curtains, qata, a men’s section, a woman’s section called a muharram and a kitchen.  The floor would be the dessert itself or a hand woven carpet.

Discover Mongolia Travel – Ger description – http://www.discovermongolia.mn – can be found here:

https://www.discovermongolia.mn/about-mongolia/culture-art-history/ger-mongolian-traditional-dwelling

De Cruz, Daniel – Aramco World Magazine – http://www.aramcoworld.com (1966) – article can be found here:

https://archive.aramcoworld.com/issue/196603/the.black.tent.htm

A Futuristic Tent for the Sheikh – by Samuel Fournier (2013)

This Tent Pavillion was a proposal for a Saudi Arabian Sheik.  The structure being made of steel with the outer skin made of PTFE and coated with PTFE woven fabric.

Fournier, Samuel – Designer – A Futuristic Tent for the Sheikh – http://www.liwe.ca – can be found here at:

http://www.liwe.ca/textilearchitecture

Textile Architecture – King Abdulaziz Center – MDT

The King Abdulaziz Center for Culture (Ithra) is a state of the art building has outside areas needing protection from the severe heat and sun conditions.  MDT provided umbrella like structures that were designed to protect people from the severe weather conditions of Saudi Arabia, particularly the sun, strong winds, dust and rain storms.  A material called PTFE was used and had been TEFLON coated in order to provide the best protection.

MDT-tex – Textile Architecture in King Abdulaziz Center – http://www.archdaily.com – article on the ‘upside down’ umbrellas protecting the public can be found here: https://neufert-cdn.archdaily.net/uploads/product_file/file/52667/mdt_Factsheet_King_Abdulaziz_Center.pdf

and here

https://www.archdaily.com/catalog/us/products/13818/textile-architecture-in-king-abdulaziz-center-mdt-tex

Surrounded Islands – Christo and Jeanne-Claude (1980-83)

“In 1983, eleven of the islands situated in Biscayne Bay, Greater Miami, were surrounded with 6.5 million square feet of floating pink wove polypropylene fabric covering the surface of the water and extending out from each island into the bay”. (Claude 1980).

Claude, Christo and Jeanne – Article on website http://www.christojeanneclaude.net can be found here at:

https://www.christojeanneclaude.net/projects/surrounded-islands#.UtFAHrRDf6A

MY RESEARCH – ENVELOPING THE BODY

Maiko Takeda – Atmospheric Collection

“Hundreds of plastic elements project from the surface of her millinery pieces.  They create a defined silhouette, while coloured tips create a floating outline of that silhouette”.

http://www.maikotakeda.com/

accessed July 9, 2019

Balenciaga’s Coat – Design

The design of the coat with its soft folds down the sleeves, appeared effortless, however to achieve this effect it was very skillful to avoid a bulky look.  The look of the coat was from the 1950’s and created a “luxurious statement”.

Irving Penn Dies at 92

(accessed 7th July 2019)

Richard Ardavedon – Veruschka Dress by Bill Blass 1967

Drape and Movement – This photo captures the movement of textiles by the way the model has been photographed adding a kinetic energy to the garments

https://www.avedonfoundation.org/the-work

(accessed July 9 2019)

FURTHER READING

Howes, P & Laughlin Z (2012) Material Matters: New Materials in Design.  London: Black Dog Publishing

Papanek, V. (1971) Design for the Real World: Human Ecology and Social Change.  New York: Pantheon

Thomson, R. & Thomson, M. (2013) Sustainable Materials, Processes and Production (The Manufacturing Guides).  London: Thames & Hudson

Viewpoint magazine: http:/viewpointmag.com

MDT Designers – https://neufert-cdn.archdaily.net/uploads/product_file/file/52667/mdt_Factsheet_King_Abdulaziz_Center.pdfhttps://www.archdaily.com/catalog/us/products/13818/textile-architecture-in-king-abdulaziz-center-mdt-tex

RECOMMENDED WEBSITES

http://www.dezeen.com

http://www.paternity.org

http://www.style.com

http://www.thesartorialist.com

http://www.theselby.com

 

 

Advertisements